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Pteruges Index |
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The project
The reconstruction that follows is a consequence of what discussed in previous pages. So the material used is textile (linen and wool/felt) and the colours are brilliant as the traces found on the original statues.
Let me remove any doubts, this reconstruction cannot be considered "experimental archeology" because in each step of the process I have used modern tools (needles, linen, colorants, etc.) and I have avoided any metodology of this science.
In the lower part (the "kilt") I have planned to make two different lines of pteruges. The most external one on the top I chose the aegyptian blu color, while the longer row, under the first one, the colour is white, but with blu fringes. Each row has a separate linen belt in order to be able to wash them separately.
In the higher part (the shoulders) there will be also two rows for each shoulder. The bottom one completely white with blue fringes, the top one with alternate blu-white pteryges always with blue fringes.
Pic.12-13. Left: pteryges layout as planned originally. The brown section is the felt, the red is the linen, while the fringes are blue.
Right: the sewings on the two versions with or without fringes.
Coloring
The linen used is very old. I used an "ancient" sheet of the XIX century (from the grand-mother of my grand-mother) probably hand made. I made this terrible decision to sacrify that sheet because I was fascinated from the linen irregularity with the hand made junctions strongly evident.
The linen was completely white due to high usage and my project previewed coloring according to the group color: the aegyptian blue. So I used a machine-wash powder from Dylon.
Cutting
Once decided the lenght of each row it must be cut the 1mm thick felt with a tolerance of 1-2mm on each side. The linen require much more tolerance of about 10mm on each side because it is needed for the hems, while on the top it is needed to leave 70-80mm of free linen to be sewed to the belt. For this reason it has to be left without felt.
Pic.14-15. The pile of cut felt pieces and the work plank. The cut has been done with a normal cutter.
Sewing the "sandwich"
Before to start sewing let me remember to non experts the extremely importance to assemble the pieces togheter in advance with some pins. In the pictures below (pic. 16) is visible on the left side of the pteryge the free linen without felt to facilitate the belt sewing. In this case I have chosen to leave a longer piece in order to attach the pteryge in the internal side of the belt. This way the pteryge must be turned above the belt once weared.
Pic.16-17. Left: while placing the pins. Right: starting sewing with pins placed.
The sewing over the hem is much easy: the needle must pass always in same sense not in alternance a sort of spiral.
Pic.18-19. Left: the "spiral" sewing. Right: the terminal part not finished.
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Pteruges Index |
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6 |
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